Hangzhou was meant to be our little nature retreat during China 2026: four beautiful days at the Shangri-La Midtown, slow walks, green views, and time to breathe. The beginning, however, was not quite as peaceful as imagined.
A Rocky Start at West Lake
After arriving at the hotel, our first room smelled strongly of cold smoke. We went back to reception, received a new room, and unfortunately found the same smell there too. One air purifier later, we made our first walk toward West Lake and were immediately overwhelmed by the crowds.
What we had not fully realized was that Friday was a public holiday in China, turning the Dragon Boat Festival weekend into a huge travel rush. We went to bed slightly disappointed, but luckily Hangzhou was about to change completely for us.
The Walk That Changed Everything
On our second day, we decided to escape the crowds with a long walk around the lake. In the end, it became almost 40,000 steps, including several spontaneous route changes, and it was exactly what we needed.
Lunch was a highlight at Qing Chun Perma, a vegan restaurant awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand. This distinction is given to restaurants that offer especially good food at a fair value, and here it felt absolutely deserved.
Afterward, we continued toward Lingyin Temple, although visiting was sadly impossible because of the crowds. Instead, we wandered further to the incredibly beautiful grounds of Amanfayun, a peaceful luxury hotel village inspired by traditional Chinese architecture, surrounded by greenery and old stone paths.
Rain, Lakes, and Quiet Beauty
A little drizzle, the lush landscape, the elegant hotel grounds, and the smaller lakes around West Lake made the day feel unexpectedly special. Away from the main tourist spots, Hangzhou finally became the calm, atmospheric place we had hoped for.
Longjing Tea Villages
The next day, our feet reminded us of the 40,000 steps before. After a gentle 1.5-hour walk, we headed to the famous tea villages where Longjing tea is grown. Over lunch, we tried local specialties from Hangzhou and the region, together with the delicate green tea that makes this area so well known.
Yan’an Road and Peking Duck
On our final day, we originally planned to visit Nine Creeks in Misty Forest, but changed plans in the morning. Instead, we spent around five hours exploring Yan’an Road, Hangzhou’s main shopping street, with its mix of big stores, small shops, and malls. It felt much more charming than the huge malls of Shanghai.
In the evening, after a longer restaurant search, we ended up in a Peking restaurant. Of course, we could not skip the duck. The side dishes already impressed us, and the duck was the perfect final touch.
Final Thoughts
Hangzhou started with frustration, crowds, and a little uncertainty. But with time, walking, rain, tea, and a few wonderful meals, it became one of those places that slowly opens up and then stays with you.
